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  #16  
4th June 2010, 12:53 PM
dx90
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I have tried to adjust the clutch like you said and it won't have any of it.

In 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled in and trying to move the back wheel it feels like the clutch is not released. If I let the clutch out it feels the same.

If I hold the clutch lever in and jerk the back wheel several times very hard then I can just about move the back wheel round. But it feels like the clutch is still grabbing at least 50% on. If I then let the clutch lever go the wheel doesn't move as you would expect. When I pull the clutch lever back in I have to follow the above to get partial clutch release.

I also did an experiment with the back wheel off the ground and the engine running going up and down through the gears with and with out the clutch pulled in and there was no difference. It did change gear fairly smoothly like this.

Putting in new oil did make a difference but not enough to sort out the problem.

Any ideas what to try next?

Thanks

Andy
  #17  
4th June 2010, 01:10 PM
sonic242
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Posts: 131
Where are you adjusting the clutch on the push rod, the cable adjuster at the engine or at the lever.

Cheers Dave
  #18  
5th June 2010, 09:37 AM
dx90
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I slackened off the adjuster on the lever and then unslacked off the one on the engine.
I then undone the two screws on the side plate to gain access to the, I think it's called the worrm drive.
I then losened the nut and unsrewed the centre screw out.and then screwed it back in again until it just pinched and then I uncrewed it back out 1/2 a turn and then tightened the lock nut back up while holding the centre screw in place with a screw driver.
I then adjusted the one ontop of the engine to take up some slack and then did the fine adjustment on the lever end.

None of the above worked.

I then went through all adjustments again. But this time I checked the back wheel for free movement more frequently and again with no sucsess.

This is strange.


Thanks

Andy
  #19  
5th June 2010, 08:26 PM
sonic242
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If screw the worm drive in can you get the clutch to disengaged. I remberer doing the clutch on my gs is was bit of *ugger.
  #20  
7th June 2010, 01:03 PM
woodie
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It sounds like all adjusting has been tried. I hate to say this but you may have to strip out the clutch. if you can't move the back wheel with the bike in gear and the clutch in it is NOT releasing somewhere.
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  #21  
8th June 2010, 07:42 AM
sonic242
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I have to agree with woody just did not want to be the first to say it.
  #22  
8th June 2010, 08:34 AM
dx90
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When I take the clutch out and after putting it all back in, is it posible to see if the clutch is working properly before putting the clutch case back on and refilling with oil?

If yes how do I check that everything is working correctly before putting the cover back on?

Is it possible to reuse the gasket or will I need to buy a new one?

Thanks
  #23  
8th June 2010, 09:20 AM
sonic242
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drain the oil.
spark generator UNIT
remove the clutch cover
depress the clutch and see if you can see the plates separating remove the clutch as per the manual. Once removed looking for bluing of the clutch plates.


Cheers Dave
  #24  
8th June 2010, 11:55 AM
woodie
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Can't STRESS THIS ENOUGH! get a Haynes Manual or download from the reference section on here BEFORE you do any stripping out

It shows in quite good detail the process of removing and stripping a cluthch. far better than I could describe (even if I can do it with my eyes closed now)..

yes once you have rebuilt the clutch you can check the operation by doing as I suggested before. raising the back wheel and trying to turn it with the clutch pulled in.. just dont try this by starting the engine with no oil in... you will kill the engine VERY fast
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  #25  
8th June 2010, 12:37 PM
dx90
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Thanks for the info all noted. As soon as the weather stays dry for long enough and I've had a good read of the manual I will strip it down and report back with what I find.

Do I need a new gasket or can I use the old one?

If I do need a new one is a genuine one better?
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Thanks

Andy


Suzki GS500/F K5 2005 UK
  #26  
8th June 2010, 04:13 PM
woodie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dx90
Do I need a new gasket or can I use the old one?
If your carefull and dont rip the old one a bit of gasket sealer should do the trick

Quote:
Originally Posted by dx90
If I do need a new one is a genuine one better?
Won't make much difference.
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  #27  
8th June 2010, 05:47 PM
dx90
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Ok Woodie, thanks
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Thanks

Andy


Suzki GS500/F K5 2005 UK
  #28  
Yesterday, 07:56 AM
Daveparker07
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 106
Clutch asket.

I got one off Fleabay for about 6, genuine Suzuki part.
Dont do as I did though, because it said in the manual that you HAD to replace the gasket, I started to take off the original gasket. OMG, 14 year old gaskets DO NOT want to come off. Got extremely fed up with it and sanded it down as much as I could to create a flat mating surface from my mess of a partially removed old one and used silicone gasket maker to glue the new one in place.
No oil leaks so far...

Have fun, and dont stress about it, I am not a mechanic, just average with the spanners and I changed the whole thing.
One thing I will say is, be especially careful with the screws that hold the generator in place, mine were quite difficult to get out and I replaced with new ones. And used Copper grease on all nuts, bolts, scrrews etc on re-building.
And it all worked first time out..result, even I was surprised.
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