Cylinder block will not budge!!!

sanchopascoe · #1 7th May 2013, 04:13 AM

Hi folks. Has anyone had a problem getting the cylinder block off the crankcase during their engine stripdown. Mine is well and truly stuck, have tried several tricks, bigger wooden mallet, heating the joint face (awkward!), gentle leverage with wooden wedges, a bigger assistant but it is not interested. It would appear that the front inner engine studs have corroded enough to lock the block on. It is all currently sitting in the shed soaking in coke in an attempt to breakdown the corrosion. BUT....am I missing something obvious, have I forgotten a bolt or nut? The truth is this was a fleabay impulse purchase and corrosion has been a bit of an oddball issue with this bike, more so than usual. I think it has seen more than it's fair share of fine road salt and then left to marinate. It would also have to be added that the current crankcases are u/s front mounting point disintegrated during engine removal and the oilcover studs are bent so i was planning to replace the cases, a new and good pair are sitting in a box in the hallway cupboard much to her delight. It's been a long weekend so please forgive the long ramble. atb Nick

**tunedwolf** · #2 7th May 2013, 11:56 AM

All known issues with them I'm afraid, steel studs, alloy block and cases, not corrosion friendly

You may end up having to cut the studs with a slitting tool I'm afraid, if all else fails. Loads of plus gas and sanding/ grinding of the studs etc may eventually get the barnicles small enough to pass through, if you can get to the point of being able to turn the studs, all the better. I seem to remember woodie having a similar issue at one point, maybe he'll be able to shed some light on how he separated the barrels on his

sanchopascoe · #3 8th May 2013, 06:54 PM

Thanks for that Tunedwolf. Ah that is a thought remove the studs the cases are pretty well knackered and with new ones to go back their survival is not an issue. Anyone happen to know what the torque value is for installing the studs by chance? I can see a stainless steel project developing for my tame apprentice in our tool room at work!!!!!!

woodie · #4 8th May 2013, 09:37 PM

You don't wanna know how I got mine apart....

Took a lump hammer to the head and broke it off. After lots of slow work using vinegar (Acetic Acid), a thin screw driver (poked down the bolt hole to loosen rust) Club hammer to the top of the bolt (shock the bolt loose). Eventually I got the barrel to move up about 1/4 of an inch. The offending studs I cut off flush with the barrel and it lifted off over the top.

Then repeated the actions on the remains of the stud until I could get it out with a stud gripper.

sanchopascoe · #5 9th May 2013, 03:51 AM

Thanks Woodie but the cylinder head is off came free RELATIVELY easily it's the block that has decided to form a homogenous lump! I am now stripping down the crankcase internals from the underside of the engine in effect so as to lighten the lump. Then surgery can commence. If you replace your engine studs hat torque setting did you use or is it a case of letting them botom out on the threads and a good splash of Loctite? I must admit to now feeling a bit reluctant to try stainless, not sure that it will take the elongation stresses. Again, anyone any thoughts on this? Atb Nick

woodie · #6 9th May 2013, 11:35 AM

Sorry, I meant to say Barrels.

sanchopascoe · #7 9th May 2013, 08:20 PM

Still it looks like major cosmetic surgery, will the patient still manage to play the piano? But seriously Sat afternoon is D-Day for this engine and ulimately the bike. Will keep the world informed of my latest character building test. Cannot wait!!!!!!!!!

Leveller · #8 10th June 2013, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodie

You don't wanna know how I got mine apart....

Took a lump hammer to the head and broke it off. After lots of slow work using vinegar (Acetic Acid), a thin screw driver (poked down the bolt hole to loosen rust) Club hammer to the top of the bolt (shock the bolt loose). Eventually I got the barrel to move up about 1/4 of an inch. The offending studs I cut off flush with the barrel and it lifted off over the top.

Then repeated the actions on the remains of the stud until I could get it out with a stud gripper.

I have been tinkering with bikes for nigh on 30 years and i have never ever, ever seen such utter carnage inflicted on a engine.

Woodie you have my total and utter respect and remind me never to upset you